Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Suddenly everything was okay when the cabin crew brought out the cups of vanilla ice cream from the dry ice bins...

It's 8:45p Eastern Standard Time. We left San Francisco at 10:45a (1:45p EST), and this flight to Seoul lasts just under 11 hours. So according to my calculations we will be arriving at Seoul around 12:45 EST, or about 4 hours from now. We're just past halfway.

Just about the only thing I've done this flight is sleep, watch (with my eyes only) Iron Man 3 again, gush over adorable Korean toddlers, and read the ETA (English Teaching Assistant) Handbook that was sent to us weeks ago but I've only just gotten around to reading. It goes over tips on how to shop, cultural norms, how to get around, etc.

Some interesting things I found about this handbook:

- Many of the sections suggest to go somewhere or do something with "your Mongolian friends" or "a Mongolian friend" first. So... considering this is an intro to ETAs in UB, does that mean our ETAssistantship just comes with a trusted Mongolian buddy included in the program? There's no section on "How to Make Mongolian Friends"!

- It is very cold, with winter temperatures regularly reaching -40F. (HOLY MOLY! "Regularly"??) The key to surviving is layers. This starts with at least one layer of long underwear, pants, a shirt, a sweater, a long coat that goes at least beyond your waist, at least one hat (this is calling up memories of a children's storybook where a character is wearing stacks of hats... a Dr. Seuss book, perhaps?), a scarf, thin gloves and big mittens to go over them, and a least one pair of thick wool socks and heavy boots. Make sure you have enough room to comfortably wear your boots with your thick socks and wiggle your toes. (I got 7.5 hiking boots off of Amazon... guess I should have gone a size up!)

- You can try being vegetarian in UB, but goodness forbid you try and be vegan: you'll basically be written off as rude: It may be difficult to interact with Mongolians during meals. Mongolians always feed you when you go to their house, so it can make visiting difficult as well.

- 1 USD is 1440 MNT (Mongolian Tugriks). There are no coins, as the smallest bill is 1 tugrik (bills less than 50 are rarely used). Internet cafes are common and you can use the internet for less than 600 tugriks an hour. A taxi ride is 700 tugriks per kilometer.

- Mongolians usually only refer to each other using their "first" names and those with identical first names use a patronymic (name of the father) that precedes their first name. (In Russian, it's first name followed by the patronymic.) For example, since my dad's name is Germelino, my Mongolian name might be Germelinogiin Kristine or G. Kristine.

- Names are often two nouns or adjectives. Examples being:
               Turmurbaatar "iron-hero" (male)
               Chuluunbold "stone-steel" (male)
               Narantuya "sunbeam" (female)
               Sarangerel "moon-light" (female)

I think girls' names are so pretty! My friend Enka's name comes from the word Enkh meaning "peace."              

- "Do you have a boyfriend?" "Why aren't you married?" "How old are you?" "How much money do you make?" "Do you have children?" "Why don't you marry a Mongolian?" are all common questions. In a society where human relationships are so important, these are attempts to build intimacy across vertical social structures. Sometimes these are the only English phrases that a Mongolian may know. Remember that people are trying to be friendly.

- Like in Russia (and in some cities in the U.S., unfortunately!), recycling is not a thing. But peddlers will often collect and even buy plastic and aluminum bottles to turn in for more money. They can be identified by their burlap collection bags. I will be close friends with these folks!!!

UB is Ulaanbaatar


You could be flying me to some undisclosed location, blindfolded. The feeling of being plunged into the unknown is such to me right now.
 
I admit I didn't prepare as much as I'd planned. I'd planned to read all the guide books, read all the articles that came up in my Google news alerts, complete a 120-hour TESL (Teaching English as a Second Language) online course. I hardly made a dent into Mongolian history, I signed up for news alerts only 3 weeks before my departure, and out of 50 online lessons, I've only completed 2.

People would ask me, "How are your preparations going?" "Have you packed?" "Are you ready for Mongolia?" I didn't feel any particular urgency, but regardless, no matter how much I prepared the less prepared I felt. As I started to pack, my list of things to buy and do became longer. My to-do list was probably the longest on July 30, only several hours before leaving the airport.

Another question I heard many times my last week in the U.S.: "Are you getting excited?!" Well, yes! I've been excited. Too excited, maybe, to feel any pressure that would have prevented my procrastination. Now, I was getting nervous. I'm grateful for the anticipation, however, if not preparation.

Preparations to go abroad have also distorted my sense of time. Monday and Tuesday became weekends, or 1 or 2 days before my plane leaves. Most everything I have done to prepare for Mongolia has been to prepare to leave for Mongolia: packing, saying goodbyes, settling accounts.

I knew the details of everything up until my 7:00a flight this morning. And I know the rough details of what I will do 1 year from now (recommence engineering courses, apply to firms, apply to grad schools, prepare for the GRE). But everything in between--I have no idea. Complete blank stare pages to be filled.

One thing that has been consistently on my to-do list: "Make a list of goals." Goals--something  sturdy and fixed to mold unwieldy uncertainty around. 

Better late than never!

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Nothing can stop me now

I have my visa. So unless someone close to me dies or I contract West Nile Virus from all the unprotected outdoor work I have been doing lately, I. am. going. to. Mongolia.

My sister Joanne picked up the visa from the Mongolian Embassy this morning. I knew the window opened at 9:00a, Joanne sent me a phone picture of the Embassy shortly thereafter, but nevertheless at 9:15 I called the Embassy directly to make sure that it was okay my sister was the one doing the pick-up. They confirmed that she had just picked it up, and I rejoiced for about 3 seconds... until I noticed I hadn't gotten any kind of confirmation from my sister. She could have gotten mugged in between her picture of the Mongolian Embassy and their verbal confirmation!

I called her several times. For some reason the call kept going dead. So I texted, texted. Finally I received the text "It has been gotten." That was certainly a comfort but it was really the picture (I can see it!) of the visa that sealed the deal. FINALLY!

I think the Verizon folks got a message from God to start conditioning for life in Mongolia, i.e. not being able to talk with my sister every day, because for some reason our phones have suddenly become incompatible. That is, I can't call her. She can't call me. Texts only. The cut-off has begun.

I've started to pack, by which I mean I've put out the 3 potential suitcases I'm going to bring (although I may limit it and my misery to 2 suitcases-full) and starting making piles around the house. One pile is on the guest bed. The other pile is made up of things thrown into the coat closet by the kitchen. They'll all make it out of there and into my portables soon enough.

Some unusual things I've been recommended to pack:
- a year supply of tampons (this an expensive thing in Asia)
- deodorant (this is not a thing overall in Asia)
- monistat (because everything is pretty much hang-dry)
- hiking boots
- thermal underwear
- microfiber travel/camping towel
- down sleeping bag (to 0F, darn. I got to 15F)
- down jacket (down is easily smushable)
- rain jacket (when it rains, it pours)
- face masks (the air pollution is abominable in UB from coal being fired for warmth in the ger districts. my mom, a nurse, has snagged me a box from work)
- favorite spices (haven't bought any for myself, but I've gotten 3 canisters of Old Bay for gifting)
- dramamine (impossible to find anywhere, apparently)

And some things for the kids, etc.:
- stickers
- pictures of where I live

T-5 days.
(I think I just lost my breath writing that.)